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Post by lowtechguy on Apr 12, 2007 14:18:17 GMT
It is a backup for the crank sensor I assume to continue running if it fails or to advise if it has skipped a tooth on the belt however I am only speculating.
For now drive with it unplugged if it will let you and continue to check earths and replace the ICV, if there is hesistation still this would be down to mapping needing re-doing as broken parts now replaced.
The cutting out is definatly eletricial though. Either the earth or something else.
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Post by babaracus on Apr 12, 2007 18:02:40 GMT
Well I gave myself some time off this afternoon to have a look around, have checked the gearbox earth (all attatched and contacts looks fine), also checked other earths near ecu and other side of engine bay near collant bottle, took off and cleaned up anyway.
Checked the oil press light wiring and crank sensor wiring, disconnected, cleaned etc.
Now a funny thing is this, whenever the car rises above a certain temp it seems the oil pressure light does not come on, when starting up when cold it is always on!!
Example put press sensor on after cleaning, switched on ignition light on, went for 15 min drive, let car idle and fan cut in a couple of times. After this swtiched on ignition just to see and low and behold no light to be seen!
I inspected the oil press/crank wiring and the condition seems fine aka no bare wires but, due to the conversion it is currently running with cable ties down the coolant bottle pipe.
I didn't expect the pipe to be that hot, but it was really scalding hot, so i'm thinking as the car gets warm it is messing with the oil press and crank sensors in some way. It seems to much of a concidence. If I leave the car til cold oil press light comes back on again on ignition!!
I do put the rest down to the map as soon as it came off the rollers at Jasons it has never gone very well. It certainly needs post sports cat lambda and further remap to dial out some more problems!
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Post by babaracus on Apr 12, 2007 18:04:16 GMT
BTW just to add, now running car with cam sensor disconnected.
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Post by lowtechguy on Apr 13, 2007 8:23:58 GMT
BTW just to add, now running car with cam sensor disconnected. And is it any better? |
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Post by babaracus on Apr 13, 2007 10:45:32 GMT
Well as I d/c'd the batt yesterday when I was working on it, the ECU reset at my guess and now I have no juddering rev counter, it also didn't stall once which is progress. I went for a 1hr drive around.
Car is still hesitating like mad, but I put this down to overfuelling, If I press throttle to ground, car holds back like mad, then as soon as I lift off the overrun makes a really loud pop out the exhaust.
So next stage is sports cat and post cat lambda fitting, with a further map.
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Post by babaracus on Apr 13, 2007 10:46:52 GMT
I think the mapping has always been well off to say the least as when my car was 1108 and i changed manifold to cat manifold for MOT after mapping I had similar hesitation symptoms.
This seems too alike to be something different.
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Post by lowtechguy on Apr 13, 2007 11:04:34 GMT
I think the mapping has always been well off to say the least as when my car was 1108 and i changed manifold to cat manifold for MOT after mapping I had similar hesitation symptoms. This seems too alike to be something different. To be fair your ignition was weak when it was mapped and if you ICV (I know I keep saying it) is up the creek then that will mess things up as well. Its a messy conversion so don't expect your hands to be clean after 1 mapping session. Get the exhaust sorted and drive up to Chippeduk the following day to get mapped! |
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Post by babaracus on Apr 13, 2007 15:46:46 GMT
Yes prob will do. Will all be sorted at start of May, next job is to get a quote to tighten the handbrake cable as mine was on the limit at MOT last year.
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Post by babaracus on Apr 17, 2007 18:28:57 GMT
Well I have some progress, after the changes I made in the past weeks and an ecu reset the rev councer "bouncing antics" have gone. For good hopefully!! Its also not stalling anymore in traffic.
Only complaint I have now, smoothness wise is that it still takes quite a bit of time to turn over when cold? Any ideas.
Have magnecor KV85 leads for it on order as we speak! Just so ignition is 100%!
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Post by babaracus on Apr 18, 2007 21:49:07 GMT
Err right next issue, I seem to have sorted the really ill running, but on start up from cold the car normally needs accelerator hard down and lots of turning over (5secs+) to get started. When hot this is not an issue.
When I do try and turn it over from cold it tries to turn over, then makes a light backfire noise, as soon as throttle is applied after a couple fo seconds it springs into life! If I do't use throttle it pretty much refuses to start on most occassions.
Like I say when engine is hot and is restarted e.g stopping for fuel it starts on the button first and every time!
Any feedback much appreciated?
BA!
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Post by lowtechguy on Apr 20, 2007 8:53:21 GMT
THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How many times do I have to say it!!!!!!!!
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Post by babaracus on Apr 20, 2007 10:15:01 GMT
OK OK OK!!!!!!
Easy Now, I will order one especially for you!!!
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Post by babaracus on Apr 20, 2007 10:24:25 GMT
I have just phoned my local Fiat dealer SGM in Southampton, guy on parts was as helpful as usual, said he could only supply it with a throttle body at £240!
I then exaplined that the punto 1242 mk2 uses the same t/b and I think had a recall part number specifically for the valve, he didn't bother checking (he's that type of person where its just a job, not a hobby) and said he didn't know of any such thing and put the phone down.
Charming.
So any ideas as to where else I can locate one from?
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Post by lowtechguy on Apr 20, 2007 11:24:35 GMT
Oldschool can get and fit for you.
The ICV is closed shut hence only starting when you open the throttle...
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